Flower Gardening Tips

Planting Tips for a Beautiful Daylily Garden

libba — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 11:00:31 +0000

Daylilies are always one of the most dramatic and one of the most remarkable denizens of the garden, but like other flowers, the way daylilies are planted will have a strong impact on how they grow and thrive. It is important to understand the needs of these remarkable flowers in order to get the most vibrant and long lasting blooms.

One thing that gardeners will need to know is that daylilies are true sun loving plants. In order to grow and bloom their best, these sun loving flowers will need to get at least half a day of full sunlight every day.

It is important, therefore, for gardeners to choose the spot where the daylily will be planted carefully, and to ensure that plenty of sunlight will be available throughout the growing season. Daylilies can tolerate some filtered shade, but it is still important that they receive at least half a day of full sunlight every day.

When choosing daylilies in the nursery, it is important to carefully examine their condition and to reject any plants that show sings of disease or damage. Most daylilies will be shipped as bare root plants, and it is important to ensure that the plants have not been damaged in shipment.

After the plants have been evaluated, and the best plants chosen, it is time to get ready for planting. Planting the daylily is typically a straightforward affair, beginning of course with the digging of the hole. As with other plants, it is important to dig a hole larger than the roots of the plant, and after the hole has been dug, a mound of dirt should be placed in the bottom of the hole.

The roots of the plant will be spread out over this mound of dirt, making sure not to damage the roots. Some gardeners will sprinkle a touch of fertilizer around the mound before setting the plant in the hole, while others prefer to skip this step.

No matter what the choice when it comes to fertilization, the planting depth should be no greater than one inch above the point where the foliage meets the roots. After the proper planting depth has been achieved, the hole should be filled with dirt.

When filling the hole, be sure that there are no air pockets, and water the newly planted daylily thoroughly to get those beautiful flowers off to a great start.

How to Grow Peonies

libba — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:00:26 +0000

Peonies are a perennial that are highly visible in flower gardens every spring. Blossoms are large and fragrant and the dark green foliage keeps the garden alive with color throughout the summer months and into the fall. The showing of these beautiful flowers makes them very popular with people all over the world.

History

The history of peonies is somewhat debatable. One accounting places them in China 4,000 years age. Shortly thereafter it’s thought the peony was adopted by the Japanese culture, where it was and still is a symbol of prosperity. At that time only the wealthiest of people grew peonies in the garden.

A second theory is that the peony was named for Greek physician, Paeon because it possessed miraculous healing powers. Legend specifies that the peony’s root was used to heal wounds during the Trojan wars.

During the 1800s, many new varieties of hybrid peonies were cultivated in France. In the US, Thomas Jefferson recorded his experiences with the peony in his journal in 1771. In the mid 19th century, peonies were imported from China.

These were bred with both English and French peonies for hardiness, new colors and blossom size and form. By 1959, hundreds of peony varieties were listed in a book that was published by the American Peony Society.

Blooms

Peony blooms range in color from white to cream and from pale pink to dark red. Blossoms vary and can be single or double, blooming in May and June. Always remove peony blooms when they are spent. If you want foliage to stay green and lush through the hot summer months, remove spent blooms before seed pods form.

Peony blooms are heavy, so plant them in an area that is protected from strong winds. Do not cut blooms until the peony plant has become well-established – 1 to 2 years.

Plants

Peony plants vary in height from 18 to 32 inches. After the plant’s blooms are dead-headed, apply a light fertilizer and scratch it into the soil. Do not disturb the plant’s roots. In the fall after plants have been heavily frosted, cut stems back to approximately 6 inches and remove weeds and other debris from around the roots.

Soil

Soil should be rich in organic matter, be lightly acidic and well-drained. Peonies should be planted with a mixture of compost, soil and sheep manure, which can be purchased at most garden centers and nurseries. If peonies are planted in soil that retains a lot of moisture, the roots will rot.

Lighting

It’s best to plant peonies in full sun, though they can tolerate light shade. However, peonies planted in shaded areas will produce less and smaller flowers than those planted in full sun.

Insects

Be alert for aphids that love to suck the life out of peony buds. They love the juices that the buds produce. Other insects enjoy feasting on buds and foliage. Peonies are known for attracting hoards of ants that love to eat the sticky nectar found on buds.

Ants are in no way harmful to peonies unless they carry fungus spores from other plants. An old wives tale states that peonies must be over-run by ants in order to bloom. This is not the case. Peonies can bloom whether or not ants take up residence on their buds.

Dividing

If you decide to divide your peonies, do so in the fall. Peony plants should be very well established before you even consider dividing them. If root systems are damaged within one to two years, the plant will die. When dividing peonies, loosen the soil around the entire root system and remove the plant from the ground.

Use a sharp garden knife to divide the roots. Each root or toe, as some people call them, should have at least three eyes if you want the new plant to thrive.

Planting

When planting peony roots, dig a two-foot hole and add fertile soil, some sheep manure, organic compost and a bit of bone meal. Do not add peat moss or mulch, as both of these retain moisture that can rot the root system.

Set peony roots approximately three-feet apart and cover with just two inches of soil. If peony roots are planted too deep, they will die. Water the new plants infrequently until the first hard frost and cover with pine or spruce boughs for winter protection.

In the late spring your newly established peony plants will produce beautiful blooms that will bring a splash of color to your garden. After they are well established, you will enjoy bringing the fragrant blooms into your home to enjoy.

Zinnia Flowers: Tips on Growing and Caring

libba — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:00:55 +0000

Zinnia Basics

Zinnias are a versatile plant, ranging in appearance and type from eight inches to four feet tall, and including single and double blooms. There are zinnias with dahlia-like, cactus-like, beehive and button flowers.

The flowers also range in color, including whites, yellows, pinks and reds, and even lavenders and greens. The pretty plants are favored for their attractiveness to butterflies, which help pollinate a garden. No matter what kind of zinnia you grow, it will need a full sun location, which will help the zinnia bloom more and grow healthier.

Zinnias prefer well-drained soil, rather than heavy, dense garden soil or clay soils. Prepare the soil in the bed where you want to grow zinnias by turning it and loosening it, mixing in peat moss and sand for drainage, and compost to add organic matter.

Planting Zinnias

Most of the time, zinnias are planted by sowing seed outdoors, as they grow quickly in warm weather, and bloom for a considerable length of time across the growing season. They can be sown in the ground or the garden after the last frost date.

You also can start zinnias from seed indoors, planting them in flats or a seed starting medium 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost date. Keep them under artificial lights at a temperature between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds should germinate in 6 to 10 days.

Don’t put seedlings out until the temperatures are reliably warm in the spring, as they struggle in cooler weather. For most zinnias, you won’t need to worry about collecting seeds or replanting the following year, as they usually reseed themselves quite well.

Zinnia Care

Zinnias are heavy feeders, so plan to fertilize them regularly and often, as this will encourage lush, colorful blooming. Use a balanced 10-10-10 or 6-6-6 fertilizer, applying about one pound per 100 square feet for a first spring planting application.

You can apply another round of fertilizer in mid- or late summer, as zinnias will bloom well into the fall with fertilization. Deadheading, or pinching off dead flower blooms, is good for all types of zinnias, and if you want to encourage yours to grow into a bushy, compact shape, you can pinch off the growing tips that try to shoot upward.

Or, if you want to grow them long-stemmed for cut flowers, plant your zinnias closer together and pinch off lower shoots to encourage tall growth instead. Water zinnias regularly, keeping soil moist, but avoid overwatering. Water more in hot climates.

Zinnia Pests & Diseases

The most common problem for zinnias is powdery mildew. To prevent it, be sure there is good air circulation around the plants, and that they are not too close together. Mildew likes cool, wet conditions, so water during the day instead of at night.

Water carefully, directing the water at the base of the plant, into the soil, to prevent water from staying on leaves and stems. Some zinnia growers also use preventative applications of fungicide before powdery mildew develops, since it is so common.

There also are mildew-resistant hybrid cultivars of zinnia now available. Alternaria, or leaf spot, also can afflict zinnias, but can be prevented with good air circulation and regular deadheading. Also pinch off any diseased, dying or damaged parts of the plants and discard them to prevent disease spread.

Zinnias can suffer from insect pests as well, of which the most probably are aphids and spider mites. Pick them off by hand, or wash them off the pants with a targeted stream of water from a spray bottle. Do this during the day, so any residual water evaporates quickly. Regular watering and fertilizing can control insects.

The fertilizing strengthens the plant, and watering helps counteract hot, dry weather, which creates prime conditions for insect pests.

Want to learn more about growing zinnias?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject.

The University of Illinois Extension has a helpful article on zinnias.

The Hendry County Extension of the University of Florida talks zinnias.

A handy fact sheet on zinnias is available from the National Garden Bureau.

Related Posts:
Begonia Flowers: The Basics, How to Plant, and How to Care For
Geranium Care: Getting the Most Out of Your Flowers
Impatiens Flowers: Growing and Care
Marigolds: Growing and Proper Care
Pansies: Caring and Growing

Pansies: Caring and Growing

libba — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:00:20 +0000

Pansy Basics

Pansies are a biennial plant, so they flower every other year, and are in the same family as violets and violas. They’re suited to most North American climates, and are fairly cold hardy, flowering in the early spring and spreading quickly throughout the summer.

They are a fast-growing groundcover plant, so be mindful that they may pop up in other places in your yard than where you first planted them. Their flowers are often shades of purple, dark red, yellow and white, with contrasting centers, and specific varieties are often bred for varying colors such as gold, maroon and pink, so you can find pansies that blend well with any flowerbed color plan.

Pansies grow best in locations with full sun and rich, loamy soil that is well-drained.

Planting Pansies

New pansy seeds or seedlings should be planted in the spring. Space them between 7 and 12 inches apart to allow for their full growth. Plant seedlings by spreading their roots slightly, placing into pre-dug holes, and firming the soil around them.

Water soon after planting. If planting seeds, plant them about 1/8 inch deep in a mixture of loam and sand for good drainage and loose soil. The flowerbed should be deep enough for good rooting, about 9 to 12 inches deep.

Seeds should germinate in just 5 to 8 days. However, you should not expect the trademark pansy blooms until the following spring if you start the year previous from seed. The planting process for mature plants, whether bought commercially or transplanted, is quite different.

Plant them in the fall in the location you wish to have pansies in the spring. Be sure they are well-established before frosts arrive; about 4 to 6 weeks ahead of the first frost is a good guideline.

Caring for Pansies

Maintenance of pansies isn’t too difficult; they are tolerant little flowers that will reward you with lush growth if they are in the right location. Be sure they are in a spot that gets full sun – at least 6 to 8 hours of sun a day – and that their soil has good drainage.

Water in the mornings to let them absorb the water before the heat of the day evaporates it. If you have enough rainfall during the week, you may not need to water at all; they need just about an inch of water a week. Keeping a rain gauge can help you know how much water they’ve had already.

As the summer goes on, pinch off flowers that have faded or wilted, which will encourage the plants to produce blooms for longer. Fertilize with a 10-10-10 fertilizer, For granular fertilizer, use about one teaspoon per square foot of flowerbed.

For liquid fertilizers, follow the directions on the label. Apply fertilizer at planting time, and again in late fall. You also can apply it every 3 to 4 weeks during the growing season if you have poor soil or want a quicker-growing groundcover.

Pansies should be transplanted or discarded and replaced every three years or so, as they should not be planted in the same location longer that that to avoid soil-borne pests and diseases.

Pansy Pests & Diseases

The most common insects affecting pansies are leafhoppers, aphids, slugs, and violet sawfly. Diseases that attack pansies include anthracnose, which produces abnormal petals in young plants, and also shows up as brown areas surrounded by black edges.

Another pansy disease is gray mold, which happens when the plants are continually too wet; avoid it by providing good soil drainage and not overwatering. Leaf spot can also affect pansies, and shows up, unsurprisingly, as spots on leaves, which can widen and spread to flowers as well.

Pansies also can suffer from rust or beet yellows, both of which discolor leaves and can stunt plant growth. Soil-borne diseases can be avoided by using sterilized soil, following care guidelines, and avoiding injuries to plants while transplanting or planting.

These diseases include root and crown rots, and downy mildew. If your plants show disease signs, remove any affected leaves or flowers, and apply pesticides if needed.

Want to learn more about growing pansies?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The West Virginia University Extension Service has the facts on pansies.

This handy PDF guides you through various pansy diseases, from the University of Georgia’s Cooperative Extension.

Texas A&M University’s horticulture service provides a helpful article on choosing pansies for planting.

Marigolds: Growing and Proper Care

libba — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:00:34 +0000

Marigold Basics

Marigolds are loved by many home gardeners for their bright, sunny colors, pretty flowers, and the fact that they are incredibly easy to care for. They do well as bedding plants, bordering planters, or lining vegetable gardens.

Marigolds are available in several types, from the taller African marigolds that do well in drought, to the shorter, bushier French marigolds that tolerate moisture and humidity better. There are also hybrids that provide a combination of characteristics, but are sterile. These are still popular for their continual blooming all season long.

Marigolds are available mainly in shades of yellow, gold and orange, and also range in scent from strongly-scented Mexican varieties to small lemon-scented signet marigolds. Once planted, most marigolds will reseed themselves thoroughly the following year, unless they are a sterile hybrid.

Planting Marigolds

There are a few options for marigold planting. They can, of course, be bought as mature plants from nurseries and garden centers, and be planted full-grown. You also can start marigolds from seed.

Whether you start it indoors or outdoors will depend largely on the length of your growing season; in climates with short summers, marigolds should be started indoors six weeks before the last frost date. Alternately, you can sow marigold seeds outdoors after the last frost, allowing a few weeks for germination.

Marigolds should be planted in full sun locations, in well-drained soil. When you plant, follow spacing guidelines for the type of marigold you have. Smaller plants can be placed 6 to 9 inches apart, while the larger ones should be up to 18 inches apart.

Care for Marigolds

Marigolds don’t require much regular care throughout the growing season. Water marigolds only when the soil is dry or in droughts. They prefer too-dry conditions to too-wet soil. However, you can’t rely on obvious wilt signs to tell when marigolds need watering, as their stalks and leaves are so hardy.

Instead, use the rule of thumb that you should water them when the soil is dry to the touch. Water until the soil is moist, but not soggy. To maintain blooming and appearance, and prevent disease, pinch off flower heads that have wilted or faded throughout the summer.

You don’t need to fertilize, except for once at planting time in the spring, and then only if you are working with poor soil. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, either liquid or granular.

The only other care tip to keep in mind is that if you have the taller African marigolds, they may need to be staked in mid or late summer as they get tall and leggy, to keep them from breaking, drooping or falling over.

Marigold Pests & Diseases

Marigolds are free from most insect pests, as they have a bitter scent and taste, so they are often used as a sort of natural bug repellent surrounding prized fruits or vegetables. One insect that doesn’t mind the taste of marigolds, however, is the grasshopper, which can damage marigolds pretty severely if they invade.

Under the right conditions, such as high heat and low humidity, spider mites also can do some damage to marigolds. Prevent them by keeping an eye out for any eggs or larvae, and washing them off of the plants immediately with a mild soap mixture.

As far as disease, marigolds sometimes can suffer from aster yellows, a virus which can be spotted when the leaves begin to yellow and soften. This will lead to stunting and death, and the disease is almost impossible to combat, so infected plants should be pulled and disposed of by burning or another destructive method that won’t spread the disease.

Want to learn more about growing marigolds?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The Iowa State University Extension has plenty of great marigold information.

The University of Nebraska at Lincoln’s horticulture extension explains history and care of marigolds.

Colorado State University’s Plant Talk Column discusses marigolds.

Impatiens Flowers: Growing and Care

libba — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:00:36 +0000

Impatiens Basics

Impatiens are an annual flower that comes in a large variety of colors, including pink, blue, yellow, red, white and purple. Old-fashioned types are fairly tall, up to two feet, but the more common modern impatiens available are as short as six inches from the ground and more compact, spanning 10 or 12 inches around. They are liked by many gardeners for their shade tolerance. For the best coloring of impatiens flowers, they need filtered light or partial shade, as direct or full sun will fade the blooms. They prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soil, with a pH around 6.0 to 6.5.

Planting Impatiens

Impatiens grow well from seed, but are slow to germinate. Plant seeds in a sterile, soilless potting mix or in seed flats. Start impatiens seeds well in advance of spring; you can plant seeds indoors 6 to 10 weeks before setting the seedlings outside. They can be hardened off and set outside after the last chance of frost damage. If you start with impatiens seedlings forma nursery or garden store instead, plant after frost danger is past, and choose a partially shaded location with good soil. If you have the tall varieties, space them 18 to 24 inches apart, while the smaller, compact impatiens can be planted from 8 to 10 inches apart.

Caring for Impatiens

Take note of the location of your impatiens when determining care guidelines. They are favored for under trees and large shrubs, as they need shade, but in such a location, they will need more water and fertilizer, as they will be competing for nutrients with the tree roots. Impatiens needs rich, moist soil, and it’s often a good idea to mulch them really lightly in a layer around the bases, to keep water near the roots longer. Impatiens will let you know when they need water, as the soft stems wilt very quickly when they are without water for too long. Using a liquid fertilizer once a month will help keep impatiens blooming and growing lushly all summer. Impatiens is an annual, and must be replanted each year, but usually does not need pinching or pruning through the growing season, so most of your work for impatiens will come at planting time. If you find your impatiens begins to get too tall and spindly, cutting it back will renew the plant’s efforts toward blooming, and reduce the top-heavy growth. Whether or not to prune is up to you, however, as it’s not needed for the health of the plant.

Pests & Diseases

Most pests and diseases that affect impatiens can be avoided with proper cultivation and care. Moisture stress is a common problem for impatiens across climates; without enough watering, they will not only wilt, but if the wilt is allowed to continue, they will drop leaves and flowers and be much more prone to pests and diseases. In the germination phase, impatiens is prone to damping off, so plant plenty of extra seeds in case this happens. Some plant viruses affect impatiens, but these are difficult to prevent or fight, beyond ensuring you buy seeds, seedlings and plants from reputable nurseries, and keeping your garden tools and containers scrupulously clean. Fungi, rots, and blights also can affect impatiens. Keep soil moist, but not soggy or squishy, to avoid these, and if you see any spots, rot or blight symptoms, remove and discard the dead, dying or diseased parts of the plant to keep it form spreading. Insects to watch for include spider mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and thrips; wash eggs and larvae off plant stems if you find them, and keep mulch clean, dry and light.

Want to learn more about growing impatiens?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

Clemson University in South Carolina has a guide to impatiens.

Impatiens are explored as a bedding plant by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System.

Some of impatiens’ history and preferences are explained in this University of Vermont Extension article.

Geranium Care: Getting the Most Out of Your Flowers

libba — Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:00:38 +0000

Geranium Basics

Geraniums are a colorful and strongly scented plant that makes a good indoor houseplant as well as a bright, hardy addition to an outdoor garden. You can choose among a wide range of colors, whether you prefer single or double flowers, and if you need a creeping geranium or an upright type of plant.

Most geraniums prefer a sunny location with at least eight hours of sun each day. They should be planted in a nice garden spot that has well-drained, loose soil. Heavy or clay soils should be amended with peat, compost and mulch to help geraniums grow better.

Planting Geraniums

Plant geraniums in the spring, but be sure all danger of frost has passed, as they won’t germinate or bloom until the soil temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Geraniums are usually propagated through cuttings taken from older geranium plants. Start them indoors in a loose soilless mix like vermiculite or perlite, not transplanting outside until the geranium cuttings are well-rooted and strong.

Cuttings can be taken any time of year, but will root best in spring and summer. If you’re starting from seeds, sow them indoors in potting mix with 16-20 hours of light, and a soil temperature of about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

In warm, sunny areas, the heat and light may be available naturally, but in more northern areas, you probably will need to use artificial lighting and heating. You can plant them outside when they are showing leaves.

Caring for Geraniums

Geraniums suffer quickly if over watered or over fertilized. Water them when the soil is dry to the touch, but not before. They will do better in dry soil than in soil that’s too wet. Whether indoors or outdoors, be sure the soil for geraniums is well drained, and that any containers are too.

Fertilize once at planting, with a 10-10-10 fertilizer, at a rate of about two pounds per 100 square feet. You can add another application of fertilizer in midsummer if needed.

Water after fertilizing to help it spread into the soil. Another tip for geranium care is to check over the flowers regularly, pinching off any faded blooms or dried-up leaves. This will help prevent pests and diseases from flourishing in the plants.

Geranium Pests & Diseases

Insects are usually not a problem for geraniums, as their strong, bitter scent keeps most bugs from bothering them. In fact, geraniums are sometimes used as border plantings around gardens simply for their bug-repellent ability. However, some diseases do attack geraniums under the right conditions.

Root rot can develop from overwatering, while leaf drop begins to happen if geraniums are allowed to go through cycles of wilt and heavy rain too often.

Botrytis fungus is a common enemy of geraniums, but you can avoid it by removing dead and faded flowers and leaves regularly, and specialized geranium fungicides are available to combat an infection if one starts.

With any disease, if it begins to affect your geraniums severely, prune back, cut off or remove any dead, dying and diseased areas of the plant to prevent the disease or fungus from spreading.

Want to learn more about growing geraniums?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The University of Minnesota has good advice for both outdoor and indoor geraniums.

Geraniums are highlighted in this issue of Horticulture and Home Pest News from Iowa State University.

A North Dakota State University horticulturist has good advice for gardeners overwintering geraniums.

Begonia Flowers: The Basics, How to Plant, and How to Care For

libba — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 11:00:38 +0000

Begonia Flower Basics

There are several types of begonia popular among gardeners for their variety of flower colors, shade tolerance, and the fact that they flower all throughout the summer. Wax begonias and tuberous begonias are among the most common types.

Wax begonias do well in sunnier areas, and are preferred by southern gardeners for their drought and heat tolerance.

Tuberous begonias prefer shade, and don’t do as well in heat and humidity. Begonias can range between 8 inches and two feet tall. They grow well as bedding plants, in pots, hanging baskets, and in window boxes, but look especially attractive when planted in large masses. They grow well in partial shade, but need some sun for blooming well. They also prefer a moist, rich, well-drained soil.

Planting Begonias

Wait to plant until soil and air temperatures are in the 60s, as cold planting will adversely affect begonias’ growth. Plant begonias up to a foot apart, as this will allow them to leaf out and bloom to their full potential. Smaller plants can be placed closer together; wax begonias, for instance, will be fine about 6 to 8 inches apart.

Set seedlings or cuttings out to root in the spring, after any frost danger is past. If you are planting tuberous begonias, these are propagated with tubers, therefore their name. They must be dug up in the fall, since they won’t last the winter outdoors.

Store tubers indoors through the winter; they will sprout shoots in the spring and can then be tended as seedlings until they are big enough to transplant outdoors. Do this after frost danger has passed. Check your specific variety of begonia to be sure of its sun or shade requirements, as they do vary even within species and cultivars, and plant it in an appropriate location.

Caring for Begonias

Begonias do not need a lot of fertilization. Fertilize with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer once in the early spring to encourage new growth and good blooming, but refrain from fertilizing the rest of the growth cycle. Begonias are popular for the minimal are they need. In shady areas, they’ll need less water, as the sun won’t evaporate as much of their water as in full sun placements. Water when the soil at the base of the plants dries out to the touch; keep it moist, but not wet. Overly wet soil can encourage mildews and rots.

Begonia Pests and Diseases

Several pests and diseases affect begonias. Among fungal disease possibilities, gray mold and powdery mildew are the most common. These can be avoided by making sure mulch is not too deep, and not over watering the plants. Stem and root rot can also happen when soil is too wet, or if you water improperly, splashing water onto leaves and stems rather than directing it into the soil.

Prevent leaf spot and blight by pinching off faded or wilting blooms and dried up, curled leaves. Keep an eye out for dead, dying or diseased parts of plants, and remove and discard them quickly so as not to give insects and diseases an opening into the plant.

As far as common insects, slugs and snails are often attracted to begonias, as are mealy bugs and spider mites. Prevent mealy bugs by keeping the area well weeded, and avoiding high-nitrogen fertilizers. If you get spider mites, wash the plants thoroughly with a dilute soap mixture, to get rid of the eggs and larvae. Handling the problem while the infestation is small is best, as they can spread to other plants quickly after hatching.

Want to learn more about growing begonias?

Check out these sites for more information:

Clemson University in South Carolina has a guide to many types of begonias.

The American Begonia Society provides articles and a virtual greenhouse exploring begonias.

Wax begonias are explained by the University of Illinois Extension.

Petunia Flowers – Planting, Gardening, and Care

libba — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:00:00 +0000

Petunias are one of the most popular varieties of garden flowers. With their bright colors and easy spreading colonies, they are the perfect way to fill out your garden or plot.

New types of petunias and hybrids introduced since the 1990s are hardier than older varieties, meaning you should be able to grow this formerly troublesome plant in virtually any zone.

Following these simple tips will ensure that your cultivation is a great success:

Petunia Planting Times and Locations

Petunias, like other flowering plants, perform and grow better under specific conditions. One of the best ways to help your petunias thrive is to make sure they have a new home they will enjoy. This means you’ll need to maintain some of the following tips:

-Planting petunias early enough in the spring season for them to build strong root systems is one of the best ways to increase heat tolerance. A hot summer can wilt even the largest blossoms quite easily. Strong established roots will ensure that their water supplies are secure.

-Petunias love the sun, and require at least 6-7 hours of direct sunlight. Furthermore, petunias do not need to be deep-planted.

The depth they were at when you received them in their original packs or pots is usually sufficient. Space spreading petunias to at least 1 to 2 feet of separation in garden beds will guarantee they will have enough growing room.

-Garden beds should be rotated regularly so your plants are not leached of nutrients by the heavy feeding petunias. Window boxes, baskets, and other containers are all good temporary flower homes when giving your gardens a break.

Petunia Watering and Feeding

Petunias consume lots of food and water in their efforts to grow quickly. This is one of the most commonly neglected aspects of growing. If you want beautiful petunias, you’ll need to tend to them on a regularly consistent basis with these simple tips:

-Petunias need large volumes of water, but they also love well-drained soil. To prevent them from drying out, it is best to water them in the morning. This way, the foliage and soil can dry out before the dark of evening puts a halt to evaporation.

Many gardeners also recommend letting the soil completely dehydrate before you water again. This technique encourages more profuse blossoming, and also helps guard against pathogen build-up.

-Since petunias love eating, they require regular fertilization. Check your variety for specific fertilization methods and schedules. As a general rule, petunias like to be fertilized every couple of weeks. Most horticultural sources recommend the use of a liquid fertilizer or the combination of liquid and slow release fertilizers.

Depending on the type of soil your petunias are growing in, and its drainage characteristics, you may need to modify your fertilization methods to prevent burned plants if you do not use a liquid or water-soluble plant food. Happy gardening!

Want to learn more about growing Petunia flowers?

The University of Minnesota has this great article about growing petunias.

A great source of information over Petunias can be found here.

Daylily Varieties: Overview to Growing and Care

libba — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 11:00:22 +0000

Native to Japan, China and Korea, the daylily, otherwise known as Hemerocallis, is an extremely versatile plant that will add a bright burst of color to just about any garden or landscape. The name Hemerocallis stems from the Greek lexicon and means “one day beauty” because each bloom only lasts for a day, however, with a bit of advanced planning, you can create a daylily landscape that blooms all season long.

Daylilies are an excellent selection for the part-time gardener as they are extremely resistant to pests and diseases, are tolerant of poor soil, heat and drought and require only a small amount of maintenance. The first thing to keep in mind when preparing to plant daylilies is that their bloom periods are so short.

Flowers appear atop stalks that may be up to seven feet tall, then soon fade and are replaced by another flower on another stalk. This cycle is completed quickly.

Some daylilies, called re-bloomers, will flower in the spring and fall, when outdoor temperatures are lower, but will be dormant during the hot, summer months.

To create a daylily bed that flowers throughout the spring and summer, ask your local nursery owner or botanist what early-, mid- and late-season bloomers they’d recommend for your area. The orange ‘Stella de Oro” daylily, more commonly known as “ditch lily,” and the yellow ‘Happy Returns’ are two of only a handful of daylilies that bloom all season long.

Below is a brief guide for some of the other colors, though bloom times may vary a bit depending upon your location.

Hot Pink to Purple

Early: ‘Little Wine Cup’
Mid: ‘Chicago Apache’
Late: ‘Chicago Apache’

Light Pink

Early: ‘Antique Rose’
Mid: ‘Fairy Tale Pink’
Late: ‘Fall Fancy’

Peach

Early: ‘Chippewa Bride’
Mid: ‘Chippewa Bride’
Late: ‘Peach Mandelynne’

Though the flowers are short-lived, the grassy leaves, depending on species location, may range from being deciduous to evergreen, also providing year-round color in many locations.

Plant daylilies where they can get at least eight hours of sun per day. They prefer average to rich soil, but will tend not to flower as well if the soil is too rich, that is, if there is too much organic matter in the soil, so go easy on the use of compost and other high-nitrogen soil amendments.

Dead head as necessary to encourage new blooms and also remove spent stalks. Although there are thousands of different types of daylilies, all but about 15 of them are hybrids, which means that saving and planting their seeds will not produce a daylily that resembles the one from which the seeds were taken.

Rather than saving seedpods for reproduction, throw them away and divide daylily clumps in the early spring or fall.

Because of the grassy appearance of the leaves and the brightness of the blooms, daylilies will provide extra interest to your garden if you keep texture and color in mind while deciding what plants will surround them. Planting daylilies in front of tall grasses such as ‘Miscanthus spp.’ will give a breezy, natural look.

If you prefer something a bit more formal, try planting bright blooming daylilies in purples, pinks or yellows behind ground-hugging, light- or white-flowering vinca. Another nice combination would be to use pale or pink daylilies in front of silvery or blue evergreens like blue spruce. Daylilies also make a nice complement to backyard ponds and swimming pools.

As colorful additions to any landscape, daylilies are easy to plant, grow and maintain. They are resistant to many of the pest, disease and weather plagues that tend to make more fragile flowers fall by the wayside in the hot summer months and, with a bit of advanced planning, can be a pivotal element in your garden’s year round appeal.